2012年12月1日

仙人掌上的金字塔 Pyramid on Cactus,Mexico city/Teotihucan,Mexico


           毒梟! 槍枝! 火拼! 黑幫黑,政府更黑! 是一直以來我對墨西哥的印象!  
           計畫要來墨西哥旅行,儘管小茂茂渾身是膽,一身武藝,其實心裡是有點不安的,畢竟,在我來的前幾天,才又發生墨國前市長被虐殺的新聞,且墨西哥城裡,對現任總統抗議激化成暴動 ! 不過,在馬雅預言的世界末日前,身為陰森關鍵時刻忠實觀眾的我,不到中美洲古文明去看看,實在很不甘心,也許逃往別的星球的飛船會在那邊有Boarding Gate!
           趁著高中同學少東暫居墨西哥城之便,小弟又是厚著臉皮去打秋風吃白食,當起半個沙發客! ( 我看以後我的朋友移居國外都不敢讓我知道了! 上次是巴西的Jenny,這次是少東...),少東也很有義氣地不只提供住宿,還當起地陪....
             墨西哥城,塞車狀況是世界數一數二的,但出乎意料地,除了交通外,治安良好,人民和善,街道乾淨 ! 只要不要讓我天天吃 Tacos,我想在這裡長住,對我來說應該不是問題!
             在墨城的幾天,除了看看墨西哥市外,分別參訪了日月金字塔,和著名的人類學博物館,以及在時序進入12月,有相當多慶典舉行的瓜達魯佩教堂 ! 不管到哪裡,都受到老墨們熱情的歡迎,在一連串的歡笑與合照中,繼續前往下一段旅程-- Oaxaca !

          Drugs , Guns ,Fight! Gangster is Gangster , but even the Government is gangster too ! That's my impression with Mexico before I go there.
          Although I am relatively experienced backpacker , planning a trip to Mexico is still an anxiety to me . 
After all , the ex-mayor of Mexico got killed  happened just before my trip . Moreover , the protest against the incumbent president was heating up . However , I won't rest myself if I won't go to see Maya civilization before Maya doomsday. Probably , I can find a way-out for doomsday over there .
           Taking the advantage of Mark 's temporary migration to Mexico ,who is my high school classmate , I decided to bother him brazenly , as a half couch-surfer . So nice is Mark , he not only provides me a place for crash , but also be a local tour guide .... 
            Mexico city is notorious for its traffic condition , which rank top in the world .But , surprisingly , except for traffic , good social order and friendly people did impress me very much . I think , if I have the chance to stay longer , that would not be a problem , as long as no tacos every day and every meal . 
             During the period of staying in Mexico city , in addition to taking a city tour , I visited the solar and luna pyramid and the famous archaeology museum , plus  Guadalupe church where there are many celebration event taking place in Dec . Wherever we went , we got a warm and friendly welcome from Mexican people !  Amid a bunch of smiles and pics , I continue to hit my route to the next stop-- Oaxaca.


     前往Teotihucan的路上,對向車道開始塞車,在墨城,塞車的路段和時間是無法預料的! 一出了墨城,房屋及都市規劃也變得較為凌亂..  
      On way to Teotihucan , the opposite lane started to be congested . In Mexico city , where and when you would meet traffic jam can't be predicted... Anytime and Anywhere... The scene gradually become messy when go out of mexico city .       


     來到Teotihucan,首先看到的是太陽金字塔! 人生中看到的第一個金字塔!
    不過這些遺跡是阿茲提克人發現並命名的,而非阿茲提克人所建立,至於他的起源也是眾說紛紜 ! 請見Wiki百科!
      The first spot seen in Teotihucan is  solar pyramid , which is the first one I have seen in my life .  These ruins are found and named by Aztec , instead of being established by them .  As for its origin , it remains no conclusion . ( pls WIKI it )

    
日月金字塔都開放給遊客攀爬,不過這次太陽金字塔的最頂端已經封閉,我看再過幾年(如果馬雅預言未成真的話......),可能就會全面封閉了....
Tourists are allowed to climb up , but the top level of solar pyramid is prohibited from visitors . Probably , they would be prohibited completely in  a few years ( if Maya prophecy won't come true ,so  we  have more years...) 


看似很陡,但其實爬起來還好!
It looks steep , but it would be fine when climbing.

從太陽金字塔,俯瞰死亡大道!
Overlook the avenue of the Dead from solar pyramid.

月亮金字塔!  與太陽金字塔相互輝映!
Luna pyramid ! Solar and Luna reflects each other.

從月亮金字塔俯瞰死亡大道!
Overlook the avenue of the Dead from Luna pyramid.



其實 精確來說,Teotihucan應該是有三個金字塔型建築,除了日月金字塔外,還有一個是羽蛇神廟,但目前也只能爬一小段去看,無法親近!
Precisely speaking , there are supposed to be three pyramid-like architecture . In addition to solar and luna pyramids , there is one called Feather Serpent Temple.




在羽蛇神廟的旁邊,有個小型博物館..... 我最搞不懂的是....這個告示牌 !
請見第二行.....  難道真的有人在裡面射箭過!?
Next to Serpent Temple , there is a micro museum .  But , that's not the point !  What confuse me is...  this sign !  Look at the second one , anyone ever play arch inside ??


墨城印象:
常見的塞車! 
便宜到不行( 不管坐到哪只要3 Peso)的捷運,老舊但整潔的車廂,常有小販來回穿梭,從賣食物到賣唱片,甚麼都有,甚麼都賣,甚麼都不奇怪!
偌大又現代化的巴士東站!
中央廣場的超大國旗!

Impression of Mexico city
1. Traffic Jam
2. Cheap Metro ( 3 peso can take you wherever you go ) , Clean carriage ( Although old ) has many vendors walking around , selling everything.
3. Large and modern bus station. 
4. A super-big national flag at central plaza.
這裡的捷運很人性化,所以每一站都以圖形化方式顯示... (不會是學蘋果電腦的吧....),對我這西文文盲來說,確是方便不少!
Each metro station has its own graph , helping commuters .


在改革者大道上的天使紀念碑 ! 改革者大道也是墨城最現代化及繁忙的主要道路!
The angel memorial at avenue of Reforma , which is the most modern and busy main road.
建國一百五十年紀念碑!  不過據說,一百五十年時,還沒建好!
此等效率,和台灣政府有得拼........
The memorial in memory of 150 th anniversary of independence . However , it is said that it hadn't been completed at that time .  Such efficiency ... as good as Taiwan government . 
在建國紀念碑底下,有著花束和悼念標語!  管他的,先拿起來拍照再說!  然後繼續和警察哈拉!
後來才明白,原來是前任總統強力對抗毒梟的後果,導致很多人喪生,因此有更多反思是去檢討這樣的掃蕩是不是有意義.....          唉!!   
There are some flowers and signs before the memorial , which is in memory of those people killed in the fight against those drug gangsters . So , there are some reflection on if they need to go on such fighting policies. 

以下相信是我在墨城幾天,看到最邪惡的場景了吧!  連自由女神都拿槍了.....
Those are the most terrific scene I saw when in Mexico city .... even the statue of Liberty takes gun...


來點神的救贖吧!  God! Give us some forgiveness .

12月,對信仰天主教的墨國來說,是個重要月份! 大小慶典不斷!
中間的圖有點傾斜,但不是我的問題! 是因為整個墨城的地基都不穩(填湖造陸的關係! 真奇怪! 阿茲提克人幹嗎不搞一個穩一點的傳說.......),由於教堂本身地基不穩,目前教堂已經開始傾斜了.....
Dec is an important month for a Catholic country . Many Celebrations are going to take place.
The church in the middle of my pics looks tilted . That's because the foundation of Mexico city started to sink . ( because it is based on a stuffed lake .)
比較妙的是,這裡也流行跪拜及偶像崇拜!
Interestingly , Knee down for payer and idol worship can be seen here .
或是像台灣的媽祖遶境一樣,用自行車或步行等方式來表達虔誠.....
Or , just like what Taiwanese did for MaZu , They show their respect by walking or cycling .
著名的人類學博物館! 大概要花一天來逛,不過我只逛了半天! 大部分的文物旁也都有英文說明了!  
巨大的太陽石板應該算是博物館的鎮館之寶了!  有些骷髏頭或臉譜..老實說看久了感覺很滑稽!
最酷的,莫過是馬雅人的漫畫吧...  畫得很有現代風格!!
The famous archaeology museum usually takes one day to see around . But , I just have half day! There have been English exlpainations showed .
The most famous piece would be the solar plate .  Moreover , some skeleton and masks looks funny .  
But, I think , the Maya comics are supposed to be coolest ! so modern it is !
在館中,也遇到了正在做數位保存的工作人員!
Some staffs were doing digital conservation .
只是,在這神聖的殿堂之中,還是有一些不肖子弟,在做些敗壞風俗的事情........
However , there is still a guy showing his disrespect to those stuff......

飛天舞! 挺酷的! 身上只綁條繩子,然後一路旋轉下來,每次演出都是玩命! 對這個舞,我小費給的多了點....15 Peso...
Flying dance !!  The dancers risk their life for each play with only a rope on each of them.
中央廣場全景!  當中的巨大國旗,是超顯眼的地標!
幾天前,這裡正在抗議現任總統,甚至有暴動! 
The whole scene of Zocalo . The super large flag is a noticeable landmark .
A few days ago , there were protests against the incumbent president , even once rose to the riot.

主教堂....  不過,我沒啥興趣看教堂....Major Church .
藝術宮!  Contemporary art palace.



觀察人生百態,才是我興趣所在!  廣場旁的小販,一聽到警察來,就是沒命狂奔 ! 然後警察走了又回來......
Making observation on human being is my interest.
The vendors at Zocalo play hide-and-see with the cops .
原住民的淨化身心靈的儀式! 費用隨喜! 因為看起來很好玩,我就索性也讓他們淨一淨吧! 
以後應該會少抓點片子來看! 結束後,真有聖靈充滿的感覺,渾身充滿能量,考試應該都能考一百分吧!
The indigenous ceremony to clean people's spirit and soul ! I decided to take one time !! 
After the ceremony , my whole body was full of energy ......
黃昏的主教堂  Major Church at dusk .

暮色將至,墨城之旅也在原住民的笛聲中,標上一個逗點!
As dark approaching , the indigenous people 's flute make a punctuation on my Mexico trip .

待續!  To Be Continued !





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